Brow mapping refers to marking and measuring a brow shape in accordance with the client bone structure, facial features, and existing brow. Brow mapping is important to take your time perfecting at the beginning of the treatment as you will be following these markings throughout the procedure.
There are different products to use when marking the brows, when learning I highly recommend using mapping stickers and pigmented mapping string.
Mapping tools
- Mapping stickers
- Callipers
- Ruler
- Sharp marking pencil
- Mapping string
- White marking pen or pencil
In the diagram above you will be able to see specifically marked lines across the eye and brow area. These markings when connected design a brow shape completely customised to the client’s face, it is important to work within these mapping guidelines to ensure the brow shape suits the client and remains as natural looking as possible. The new shape should enhance the existing brow and match perfectly with the other features.
Step-by-Step Mapping Procedure:
Line 1: this line marks the base of the bulb/head of the brow, being your first marking it must be exact and perfectly even
Line A: this is a guidance line; it measures the space between line 1 and the tear duct. This distance should remain between 1-1.5cm (ideally line 1 should positioned at the base of the brow bone)
Line 2: indicates the top of the bulb/head of the brow, it needs to be parallel to line 1. This marking should sit almost to the top of the brow bone around 3⁄4 of the way up
Line 3: this line needs to be placed at the highest vertical point of the brow bone; it should also line up with the highest horizontal point of the brow just before the face curves away to the hairline
Line B: this line indicates the distance between the lash line when the eyes are open and the bottom of the arch. This distance should be around 2cm
Line 4: this is the front of the left brow; these lines need to be place in line with the alar crease of the nose or tear duct. There is no exact placement for this line as all clients nose width and distance between eyes can widely vary. Placing this line to mark the beginning of the brow will require the artists expertise and judgement Line 5: Identical to line 4 follow the same instructions as above, these markings need to be parallel with each other and perpendicular to lines 1 and 2
Line 6: this is the middle of the face, line 4 and 5 should ideally be the same distance from this middle
Line 7: joins line 4 at the alar crease crosses through the middle of the pupil and joins line 3 to mark the position of the arch
Line 8: identical to line 7 repeat instructions as above
Line 9: joins line 4 and 7 at the alar crease and connects the outer corner of the eye, it continues up past line 1 to marks the end of the tail
Line 10: identical to line 9 repeat above instructions
The next step in the mapping process is to use callipers or a ruler to measure each line to ensure symmetry on each side. The final step is to join each section together by drawing a line (freehand) from each cross section to the next, in the diagram below it demonstrates the outcome of following this process.
Mapping Tips
- Ensure the bulbs of the brow never begins too close to the eye, some client’s brows will naturally grow lower, it is recommended to remove unnecessary hair to create the new shape
- Never allow the tail of the brow to finish lower than the head of the brow, they should sit level to each other, or the tail should sit higher, never lower
- The tail should never be rounded or curved
- A rounded brow shape is usually unflattering on most faces, an angledtapered brow is more desirable
Mapping Tutorial